A Last-Call Walk-Around for Canadian Homes, With a Fallback for Anything Already Missed
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There's a particular hush to the evening when the forecast finally says snow. The garden hose is still coiled by the side door, the patio chairs are still out, and somewhere along the foundation a little outdoor tap is still full of water. None of it feels urgent yet. That's exactly why the first snowfall catches so many of us mid-chore.
Most fall checklists treat every task as equal, from raking leaves to washing windows. This one doesn't. Each of the fifteen checks below earned its place because snow and freezing temperatures change it: the job gets harder, costs more, or simply can't be done until spring. Some of that is about water that is about to turn to ice in exactly the wrong place. A surprising amount of it is about visibility, because the vents, valves and driveway edges that are easy to spot on a bare lawn become almost impossible to find under the first real snowfall.
The checks run in order, from the ones the cold takes first to the ones you can finish on a chilly weekend afternoon. Each one explains why the weather closes the window, roughly how long the job takes, and what you can still do if the snow has already arrived. At the end, the whole walk-around comes together in a single last-call table, made for a screenshot or the fridge door. If the snow has beaten you to some of these, take a breath. Nearly everything here still has a good fallback.
If you only do one thing on this list, make it this one. The outdoor tap sits right where warm house meets cold air, and a short length of pipe feeds it through the wall. The City of Winnipeg puts it plainly in its frozen pipe prevention advice: outdoor faucets are the first to freeze. Winnipeg also suggests leaving the outdoor tap slightly open over the winter, so any water left inside has room to expand.
The sequence is simple, and it runs from the inside out. The City of Toronto tells homeowners to disconnect outdoor hoses, turn off the outdoor water supply if there is a separate shut-off valve, and then open the outdoor taps to drain the remaining water. In most houses that inside valve is a small handle on the pipe that leads toward the tap, often tucked into the basement ceiling or behind a panel near the wall where the tap comes through.
Once the inside valve is closed, head outside and open the tap. A short gush and then a trickle is exactly what you want to see. If the inside valve has a small drain cap on its side, hold a bucket underneath and loosen the cap to release the water trapped between the valve and the wall. Then leave the outdoor tap open for the season.
A frost-free tap has a long stem that closes the water off inside the wall, where the house keeps it warm, so it often has no separate inside valve. It only stays frost-free if the hose is off and the tap can drain outward.
While you're in the basement, it's worth finding your main water shut-off and turning it once to make sure it moves. Toronto includes that step in the same list, and a valve that has been tested in calm weather is a valve you can trust in an emergency. For the bigger picture, our guide to frozen pipes in Canadian homes walks through prevention, thawing and what to do if a pipe goes.
If it has already snowed: a dusting of snow on the lawn isn't the danger. Sustained cold is. Close the inside valve now and open the outside tap. If the outdoor handle won't turn, don't force it. Leave the inside valve closed, keep an eye on the pipe for drips, and open the outside tap to drain on the next mild afternoon. If the pipe or tap body looks split, that's a call for a plumber.
This one feels too small to matter, and that is precisely why it gets skipped. A hose left attached through the winter holds water against the tap, and that water has nowhere to go when it freezes.
Even a frost-free tap can't protect itself from a connected hose. Woodford, which makes frost-proof faucets, explains in its guide to how a frost-proof faucet works that a hose attached during freezing weather traps water inside the faucet, which can freeze and burst it. The cruel twist is where the burst happens. Because the split sits behind the shut-off, nothing leaks until the tap is turned on again. The manufacturer notes there can be a considerable gap between the moment the tubing ruptures and the moment anyone discovers it.
In practice, that discovery usually comes on the first warm Saturday in spring. You turn on the hose to rinse the patio, and the water runs into the wall cavity instead of out of the nozzle.
The fix takes about ten minutes. Unscrew the hose, stretch it down a slope so it drains completely, then coil it loosely and store it in the garage, shed or basement. Spray nozzles and splitters come off too, since they hold water just as stubbornly. Frost-free taps are designed to slope gently toward the outside so they drain, so once the hose is off, a quick look to confirm the tap isn't dripping back toward the wall is time well spent.
If it has already snowed: a frozen coupling won't want to let go. Pour warm tap water over the fitting, wait a minute, and try again. Never use a wrench on a frozen connection, because the force can transfer straight to the pipe inside the wall. Once the hose is off, open the tap and let it drain.
This one feels too small to matter, and that is precisely why it gets skipped. A hose left attached through the winter holds water against the tap, and that water has nowhere to go when it freezes.
Even a frost-free tap can't protect itself from a connected hose. Woodford, which makes frost-proof faucets, explains in its guide to how a frost-proof faucet works that a hose attached during freezing weather traps water inside the faucet, which can freeze and burst it. The cruel twist is where the burst happens. Because the split sits behind the shut-off, nothing leaks until the tap is turned on again. The manufacturer notes there can be a considerable gap between the moment the tubing ruptures and the moment anyone discovers it.
In practice, that discovery usually comes on the first warm Saturday in spring. You turn on the hose to rinse the patio, and the water runs into the wall cavity instead of out of the nozzle.
The fix takes about ten minutes. Unscrew the hose, stretch it down a slope so it drains completely, then coil it loosely and store it in the garage, shed or basement. Spray nozzles and splitters come off too, since they hold water just as stubbornly. Frost-free taps are designed to slope gently toward the outside so they drain, so once the hose is off, a quick look to confirm the tap isn't dripping back toward the wall is time well spent.
If it has already snowed: a frozen coupling won't want to let go. Pour warm tap water over the fitting, wait a minute, and try again. Never use a wrench on a frozen connection, because the force can transfer straight to the pipe inside the wall. Once the hose is off, open the tap and let it drain.
Your sump pump does quiet, steady work all year, moving groundwater from the weeping tile around your foundation up and out of the house. In winter, the weak point isn't the pump. It's the flexible hose outside that carries the water away.
The City of Winnipeg's sump pump guidance is direct about the risk: if water in the sump pump hose freezes, the pump can overheat and burn out. The City's recommendation is to disconnect the flexible hose outside once the weather drops below freezing. In its place, attach a 90-degree elbow to the discharge outlet with a splash pad underneath, or fasten a wider four- or six-inch perforated drain pipe that is less likely to freeze shut.
Where the water lands matters too. Winnipeg's bylaw rules out draining onto neighbouring properties, lanes, streets, sidewalks or into the floor drain, and the winter reason is easy to picture: discharge water on a sidewalk turns into a sheet of ice by morning. Aim it onto your own lawn or garden, sloping away from the house.
Never unplug the sump pump for winter, even when the outside hose is a problem. Winnipeg says so plainly. A pump that can't run is a far bigger risk than a discharge line that needs rerouting.
This takes fifteen to twenty minutes, and you'll know straight away whether your outlet is set up for winter. For the rest of the system, our sump pump and backwater valve winter check covers the pump itself, the float and the backwater valve.
If it has already snowed: shovel a clear patch at the discharge point and make sure the hose isn't buried or kinked under the snow. If the hose has already frozen solid, disconnect it and switch to the elbow and splash pad. If the pump runs but no water seems to reach the outside, the line may be blocked with ice, and that's worth a call to a plumber.
An in-ground sprinkler system is the clearest example of a job that can't wait for spring. The lines sit just below the surface, the heads sit right at it, and the backflow preventer often sits fully exposed beside the house. Once the ground freezes, any water left inside has nowhere to go.
Clearing those lines properly is more delicate than it looks. Hunter Industries, which makes irrigation equipment, says blow-out air pressure should not exceed 50 psi for polyethylene pipe or 80 psi for PVC, that compressed air should never be blown through a backflow device, and that the compressor should never run without at least one valve open. Hunter also warns that water freezing in the backflow assembly can damage its internal parts and crack the brass body.
Those details are why this is usually a contractor's job. A shop compressor that is fine for tires often can't move enough air to clear a zone, and too much pressure can damage the very parts you're trying to protect. Backflow assemblies also need draining, a step the manufacturer Watts describes as essential wherever freezing temperatures occur. A contractor visit typically takes thirty minutes to an hour, and fall calendars fill quickly.
If you do it yourself, follow your system's manual closely: regulated pressure, one zone at a time, short repeated cycles and eye protection. Shut off the main irrigation valve inside the house when you're done.
If it has already snowed: call anyway. A light snowfall doesn't always mean the lines are frozen, and many contractors keep blowing out systems into early winter. If no one can come, close the irrigation supply valve indoors, drain what you can reach, and write yourself a note to have the backflow preventer and heads inspected before the system goes back on in spring.
An in-ground sprinkler system is the clearest example of a job that can't wait for spring. The lines sit just below the surface, the heads sit right at it, and the backflow preventer often sits fully exposed beside the house. Once the ground freezes, any water left inside has nowhere to go.
Clearing those lines properly is more delicate than it looks. Hunter Industries, which makes irrigation equipment, says blow-out air pressure should not exceed 50 psi for polyethylene pipe or 80 psi for PVC, that compressed air should never be blown through a backflow device, and that the compressor should never run without at least one valve open. Hunter also warns that water freezing in the backflow assembly can damage its internal parts and crack the brass body.
Those details are why this is usually a contractor's job. A shop compressor that is fine for tires often can't move enough air to clear a zone, and too much pressure can damage the very parts you're trying to protect. Backflow assemblies also need draining, a step the manufacturer Watts describes as essential wherever freezing temperatures occur. A contractor visit typically takes thirty minutes to an hour, and fall calendars fill quickly.
If you do it yourself, follow your system's manual closely: regulated pressure, one zone at a time, short repeated cycles and eye protection. Shut off the main irrigation valve inside the house when you're done.
If it has already snowed: call anyway. A light snowfall doesn't always mean the lines are frozen, and many contractors keep blowing out systems into early winter. If no one can come, close the irrigation supply valve indoors, drain what you can reach, and write yourself a note to have the backflow preventer and heads inspected before the system goes back on in spring.
Walk around the house and count the pipes and hoods coming out of the walls. On many homes there are more than you'd expect: two plastic pipes for a high-efficiency furnace, sometimes another pair for a water heater, a dryer hood, an HRV or bathroom fan outlet, and the gas meter with its regulator. Every one of them needs to breathe all winter.
The trouble is how low they sit. In a winter safety release, Enbridge Gas notes that exhaust vents often come out of the side of a home as low as one foot above the ground, so they can be covered and blocked without a homeowner noticing, especially while shovelling or running a snow blower. The same release warns that blocked exhaust vents can let carbon monoxide from fuel-burning appliances build up in the home. It also suggests clearing icicles from the eavestroughs above, so drips don't freeze on the meter or vent pipe.
That's why this check belongs before the snow. Right now, every vent is easy to see. Push a tall garden stake or a driveway marker into the ground beside each low vent and beside the meter, and snap a photo of each one. After every storm you'll know exactly where to brush.
The meter itself deserves gentle handling. SaskEnergy asks homeowners not to use a snow plow or snow blower near the meter or riser, not to pile snow around it, and never to use de-icer or hot water on it. Clear it by hand or with a soft brush.
Walk around the house and count the pipes and hoods coming out of the walls. On many homes there are more than you'd expect: two plastic pipes for a high-efficiency furnace, sometimes another pair for a water heater, a dryer hood, an HRV or bathroom fan outlet, and the gas meter with its regulator. Every one of them needs to breathe all winter.
The trouble is how low they sit. In a winter safety release, Enbridge Gas notes that exhaust vents often come out of the side of a home as low as one foot above the ground, so they can be covered and blocked without a homeowner noticing, especially while shovelling or running a snow blower. The same release warns that blocked exhaust vents can let carbon monoxide from fuel-burning appliances build up in the home. It also suggests clearing icicles from the eavestroughs above, so drips don't freeze on the meter or vent pipe.
That's why this check belongs before the snow. Right now, every vent is easy to see. Push a tall garden stake or a driveway marker into the ground beside each low vent and beside the meter, and snap a photo of each one. After every storm you'll know exactly where to brush.
The meter itself deserves gentle handling. SaskEnergy asks homeowners not to use a snow plow or snow blower near the meter or riser, not to pile snow around it, and never to use de-icer or hot water on it. Clear it by hand or with a soft brush.
Never kick, chip or scrape ice off a gas meter or vent pipe. If the meter or regulator is encased in ice, call your gas utility; Enbridge and other utilities will remove it. If you smell gas, leave the house and call from outside.
A furnace that suddenly shuts down after a storm is often a blocked intake or exhaust, so knowing where those pipes are pays off quickly. Our 45-minute furnace room check covers the inside half of the same system, including carbon monoxide alarms.
If it has already snowed: brush every vent and the meter clear by hand, then mark them so the next storm is easier. Anything iced over on the meter is a call to the utility, and anything you're unsure about inside is a call to a licensed gas technician.
Once the snow is down, your driveway turns into a soft white field with no edges. That's when lawn edges get scraped, garden beds get buried under plow piles, and low landscape lights or sprinkler heads get clipped by a snow blower.
There's one item in that field you'll want to find in a hurry one day: the curb stop. The City of Guelph describes curb stops as the valves that control water running from the City's main to your home, usually located in the front yard, on the lawn, driveway or private sidewalk, at the border of public and private property. Guelph also notes that property owners are responsible for keeping access to them.
In winter, that access matters more than most people realize. EPCOR in Edmonton lists a frozen service line among the emergencies the curb stop is used for, alongside fires and water main breaks, and asks owners to take care not to damage it while shovelling. Find the small metal cap now, mark it with a stake, and take a photo that shows its distance from something permanent, like a corner of the driveway.
Then work your way around the rest of the yard. Reflective driveway markers along both edges, a stake at each corner of a garden bed, and one beside anything low and breakable will guide whoever clears the snow, whether that's you at dawn or a contractor in the dark. With two people, it takes twenty to thirty minutes.
If you use a snow removal service, this is the moment to agree where the markers go and where the snow gets piled. Our guide to reading a snow removal contract explains the damage clauses that come into play when a plow meets your lawn.
If it has already snowed: markers can still go in if the ground isn't frozen hard. Make a pilot hole with a long screwdriver or a piece of rebar, or simply set taller stakes into the snow. Use a summer photo or a measurement to locate the curb stop, and mark it before the next plow pass.
Once the snow is down, your driveway turns into a soft white field with no edges. That's when lawn edges get scraped, garden beds get buried under plow piles, and low landscape lights or sprinkler heads get clipped by a snow blower.
There's one item in that field you'll want to find in a hurry one day: the curb stop. The City of Guelph describes curb stops as the valves that control water running from the City's main to your home, usually located in the front yard, on the lawn, driveway or private sidewalk, at the border of public and private property. Guelph also notes that property owners are responsible for keeping access to them.
In winter, that access matters more than most people realize. EPCOR in Edmonton lists a frozen service line among the emergencies the curb stop is used for, alongside fires and water main breaks, and asks owners to take care not to damage it while shovelling. Find the small metal cap now, mark it with a stake, and take a photo that shows its distance from something permanent, like a corner of the driveway.
Then work your way around the rest of the yard. Reflective driveway markers along both edges, a stake at each corner of a garden bed, and one beside anything low and breakable will guide whoever clears the snow, whether that's you at dawn or a contractor in the dark. With two people, it takes twenty to thirty minutes.
If you use a snow removal service, this is the moment to agree where the markers go and where the snow gets piled. Our guide to reading a snow removal contract explains the damage clauses that come into play when a plow meets your lawn.
If it has already snowed: markers can still go in if the ground isn't frozen hard. Make a pilot hole with a long screwdriver or a piece of rebar, or simply set taller stakes into the snow. Use a summer photo or a measurement to locate the curb stop, and mark it before the next plow pass.
Eavestroughs are the most ladder-dependent job on this list, which is exactly why they belong before the snow. A trough packed with late leaves and seed pods can't carry meltwater away. The overflow then spills along the foundation, refreezes on walkways and steps, and drips onto anything below, including the gas meter you just marked.
The ground-level half matters just as much. The Intact Centre on Climate Adaptation recommends that downspout extensions carry water at least two metres from the foundation. Snap the extensions on, point them toward a lawn or garden that slopes away from the house, and check that none of them are aimed at a walkway where the water will freeze.
It's worth being clear about what clean eavestroughs won't do. They won't prevent ice dams. Natural Resources Canada explains that ice dams form when a warm attic melts the snow on the roof, and that the best prevention is to seal attic air leaks and insulate thoroughly. Clean troughs help the meltwater that does reach them drain away, but the cure for ice dams lives in the attic.
A ladder on frozen ground or leaning against an icy trough is how a chore turns into an injury. If there's frost or snow underfoot, leave the troughs for a thaw or for a pro with proper equipment.
Budget one to three hours, depending on the house, and work with a second person holding the ladder. If your roofline is tall or steep, this is a very reasonable job to hand off. For the bigger roof picture, our survival guide to ice dams and winter roofing problems goes deeper.
If it has already snowed: do the ground half now. Fit the downspout extensions and point them two metres out. Leave the troughs themselves for a mild, dry day or for a professional.
Window wells are small, and they fill up fast. A few weeks of falling leaves can form a soggy mat at the bottom, and when snow lands on top, the meltwater has nowhere to drain. Instead it sits against the basement window, which is the one place you least want water to wait.
Start by lifting out the leaves and debris, right down to the gravel. Then check the rim. The Intact Centre recommends that window wells sit 10 to 15 centimetres above the surrounding ground, so surface water flows past rather than in. If the soil has built up around the well over the years, rake it back so the ground slopes away.
The Insurance Bureau of Canada includes clearing snow away from basement windows, drains, gas meters and exhaust vents in its list of winter property-risk steps. A clean well now makes that winter job far quicker.
Covers deserve a quick look too. A clear cover keeps snow out and lets light in, but if a window well serves a basement bedroom's escape window, the cover has to open easily from inside, without tools, and the well has to stay clear of snow all winter. Check that the cover lifts freely before it freezes in place.
Set aside about twenty minutes for a typical house with two to four wells.
If it has already snowed: scoop the snow out by hand or with a small shovel, starting with any well beside a bedroom. Leaves trapped under the snow can wait for a thaw, but keep the window itself clear.
Window wells are small, and they fill up fast. A few weeks of falling leaves can form a soggy mat at the bottom, and when snow lands on top, the meltwater has nowhere to drain. Instead it sits against the basement window, which is the one place you least want water to wait.
Start by lifting out the leaves and debris, right down to the gravel. Then check the rim. The Intact Centre recommends that window wells sit 10 to 15 centimetres above the surrounding ground, so surface water flows past rather than in. If the soil has built up around the well over the years, rake it back so the ground slopes away.
The Insurance Bureau of Canada includes clearing snow away from basement windows, drains, gas meters and exhaust vents in its list of winter property-risk steps. A clean well now makes that winter job far quicker.
Covers deserve a quick look too. A clear cover keeps snow out and lets light in, but if a window well serves a basement bedroom's escape window, the cover has to open easily from inside, without tools, and the well has to stay clear of snow all winter. Check that the cover lifts freely before it freezes in place.
Set aside about twenty minutes for a typical house with two to four wells.
If it has already snowed: scoop the snow out by hand or with a small shovel, starting with any well beside a bedroom. Leaves trapped under the snow can wait for a thaw, but keep the window itself clear.
Mice start looking for winter quarters in the fall, and the gaps they use are smaller than most of us imagine. Health Canada notes that mice can squeeze through cracks as small as a dime, and that even the small gaps from worn thresholds under doors are enough to let them in. Its advice is practical: metal weather stripping under doors, patching foundation cracks, and stuffing steel wool around pipes before caulking.
Snow makes this job harder in two ways. Drifts banked against the foundation hide the low gaps you're looking for, and most sealants prefer to go on in milder weather. Check the tube for its minimum application temperature before you start.
Walk the perimeter slowly at ground level. Look where the gas line, water line, air conditioning lines and cable enter the house. Check the rubber seal along the bottom of the garage door, which often wears thin at the corners. Look at the base of siding for warped or lifted edges.
Before you seal anything, make sure nothing is already living inside. The Government of Ontario recommends sealing ground-level holes, cracks and warped siding, but cautions homeowners to be careful not to seal animals inside.
Two openings call for a lighter touch. Brick weep holes, the small gaps along the bottom of brick walls, are drainage, not damage, so they shouldn't be caulked shut; a purpose-made weep vent insert keeps mice out while still letting the wall drain. The dryer vent is the other. Check that its flap swings freely and closes fully, because a flap stuck open is an open door. Resist the urge to cover it with mesh. Model building codes such as the International Residential Code require a backdraft damper at the dryer outlet and prohibit screens there, because lint builds up on mesh.
Plan on forty-five to ninety minutes for a careful walk-around.
If it has already snowed: work from inside. Stuff steel wool into gaps around pipes in the basement and garage now, fit a new door sweep, and save the caulking for the next mild afternoon.
Mice start looking for winter quarters in the fall, and the gaps they use are smaller than most of us imagine. Health Canada notes that mice can squeeze through cracks as small as a dime, and that even the small gaps from worn thresholds under doors are enough to let them in. Its advice is practical: metal weather stripping under doors, patching foundation cracks, and stuffing steel wool around pipes before caulking.
Snow makes this job harder in two ways. Drifts banked against the foundation hide the low gaps you're looking for, and most sealants prefer to go on in milder weather. Check the tube for its minimum application temperature before you start.
Walk the perimeter slowly at ground level. Look where the gas line, water line, air conditioning lines and cable enter the house. Check the rubber seal along the bottom of the garage door, which often wears thin at the corners. Look at the base of siding for warped or lifted edges.
Before you seal anything, make sure nothing is already living inside. The Government of Ontario recommends sealing ground-level holes, cracks and warped siding, but cautions homeowners to be careful not to seal animals inside.
Two openings call for a lighter touch. Brick weep holes, the small gaps along the bottom of brick walls, are drainage, not damage, so they shouldn't be caulked shut; a purpose-made weep vent insert keeps mice out while still letting the wall drain. The dryer vent is the other. Check that its flap swings freely and closes fully, because a flap stuck open is an open door. Resist the urge to cover it with mesh. Model building codes such as the International Residential Code require a backdraft damper at the dryer outlet and prohibit screens there, because lint builds up on mesh.
Plan on forty-five to ninety minutes for a careful walk-around.
If it has already snowed: work from inside. Stuff steel wool into gaps around pipes in the basement and garage now, fit a new door sweep, and save the caulking for the next mild afternoon.
From the outside, an air conditioner condenser and a heat pump look almost identical: a metal box with a fan on top and fins around the sides. In winter, though, they need opposite care, and mixing them up is one of the most common mistakes on a fall to-do list.
A cooling-only air conditioner sits idle until spring. Even so, Lennox advises against wrapping it completely. A full cover traps moisture, which can lead to rust, corrosion and mould, and a covered unit can attract rodents looking for shelter. Covering may even affect some warranties. If falling ice or debris is a concern, Lennox suggests a top-only cover, such as a piece of plywood secured over the top, or a breathable cover that won't hold water. Clear out leaves from the fins first.
A heat pump is a different story, because it's working all winter to heat your home. It needs air moving freely through it on every side.
If the outdoor unit runs in winter, it's a heat pump, and it should never be covered. Lennox states that heat pumps that run year-round should never be covered, because a covered unit can't move the air it heats your home with.
Snow is the winter risk. SaveEnergyNB recommends checking the outdoor unit after each snowfall, because snow buildup around it starves the machine of air and often leads to freezing up or, worse, a failed fan motor. A thin layer of white frost that melts during the defrost cycle is normal. Never pick at ice with a tool, since the coil is easily damaged.
Before the snow, trim back any shrubs, make sure the unit sits level, and keep a clear path to it so you can reach it with a brush after every storm. For more on clearances and defrost water, see our winter heat pump safety checklist.
If it has already snowed: brush snow off the top of an idle condenser. For a heat pump, clear the snow from the top and all around the base, and keep doing so after every snowfall.
There's a simple rule for the backyard in late fall: if it can hold water, empty it or bring it in. Freezing water expands, and plastic, clay and ceramic all give way before ice does.
Rain barrels are the biggest example. Green Communities Canada explains that any water left in a rain barrel will freeze over the winter and damage it, especially if it's plastic. A full barrel weighs close to 500 pounds, so drain it before you try to move it. Open the spigot fully, use the water on your garden beds, then tip out what's left once it's light enough to handle. Take off the lid, hoses and spigot, rinse everything, and store the pieces somewhere dry.
Don't forget the downspout. Reattach the section you removed for the barrel and add an extension pointing away from the foundation, so winter meltwater doesn't pour straight down beside the house.
Unglazed clay and terra cotta pots tend to absorb water and can crack as it freezes and thaws, so empty them and stack them in the garage or shed. Glazed ceramic planters left outside are safer turned upside down. Patio cushions, umbrellas and fabric covers last much longer stored indoors than buried under snow. Allow thirty minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the yard.
If it has already snowed: tip the barrel or turn it upside down so it stops collecting snow and water. If it has frozen solid, leave it in place and drain it at the first thaw, rather than wrestling a block of ice. Bring the pots and cushions in.
There's a simple rule for the backyard in late fall: if it can hold water, empty it or bring it in. Freezing water expands, and plastic, clay and ceramic all give way before ice does.
Rain barrels are the biggest example. Green Communities Canada explains that any water left in a rain barrel will freeze over the winter and damage it, especially if it's plastic. A full barrel weighs close to 500 pounds, so drain it before you try to move it. Open the spigot fully, use the water on your garden beds, then tip out what's left once it's light enough to handle. Take off the lid, hoses and spigot, rinse everything, and store the pieces somewhere dry.
Don't forget the downspout. Reattach the section you removed for the barrel and add an extension pointing away from the foundation, so winter meltwater doesn't pour straight down beside the house.
Unglazed clay and terra cotta pots tend to absorb water and can crack as it freezes and thaws, so empty them and stack them in the garage or shed. Glazed ceramic planters left outside are safer turned upside down. Patio cushions, umbrellas and fabric covers last much longer stored indoors than buried under snow. Allow thirty minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the yard.
If it has already snowed: tip the barrel or turn it upside down so it stops collecting snow and water. If it has frozen solid, leave it in place and drain it at the first thaw, rather than wrestling a block of ice. Bring the pots and cushions in.
The unheated garage or garden shed is where half-used cans tend to collect. In a Canadian winter, those spaces regularly drop below freezing, and many common household products don't survive the trip.
Paint is the classic casualty. Benjamin Moore recommends storing paint between 15 and 27 degrees Celsius and specifically reminds homeowners to make sure paint stored in a garage doesn't freeze. Paint that has been ruined usually gives itself away: it smells sour, or it stays chunky or jelly-like even after a good stir.
Latex paint, stain and primer are the obvious ones, but look along the shelf for other water-based products too: tubes of latex caulk, tile adhesive, wood glue, and some cleaners. The label usually says "protect from freezing" or "do not freeze" if it applies. Gather them into a box and move them to a basement shelf or a closet that stays warm.
Fuels are the exception. Gasoline for the snow blower and propane cylinders should stay out of your living space, so leave them in their proper outdoor or garage storage, upright and closed.
This is one of the quickest checks on the list, about fifteen minutes.
If it has already snowed: move everything inside now. If a can of paint froze, let it come up to room temperature slowly, then stir it and check the texture. If it's smooth and smells normal, it may still be usable.
The unheated garage or garden shed is where half-used cans tend to collect. In a Canadian winter, those spaces regularly drop below freezing, and many common household products don't survive the trip.
Paint is the classic casualty. Benjamin Moore recommends storing paint between 15 and 27 degrees Celsius and specifically reminds homeowners to make sure paint stored in a garage doesn't freeze. Paint that has been ruined usually gives itself away: it smells sour, or it stays chunky or jelly-like even after a good stir.
Latex paint, stain and primer are the obvious ones, but look along the shelf for other water-based products too: tubes of latex caulk, tile adhesive, wood glue, and some cleaners. The label usually says "protect from freezing" or "do not freeze" if it applies. Gather them into a box and move them to a basement shelf or a closet that stays warm.
Fuels are the exception. Gasoline for the snow blower and propane cylinders should stay out of your living space, so leave them in their proper outdoor or garage storage, upright and closed.
This is one of the quickest checks on the list, about fifteen minutes.
If it has already snowed: move everything inside now. If a can of paint froze, let it come up to room temperature slowly, then stir it and check the texture. If it's smooth and smells normal, it may still be usable.
A snow blower that has sat since March has had all summer to develop a problem, and it will reveal that problem at six o'clock on the first snowy morning unless you find it first. Starting it now, on a calm day, turns a crisis into a to-do item.
Begin with your owner's manual, since machines differ. Ariens, the snow blower maker, recommends a pre-season routine that includes changing the oil about once a year, inspecting belts for cracking or glazing, greasing the auger on two-stage models, and checking the scraper bar and skid shoes. Ariens also explains why shear pins matter: they're designed to break if the auger hits something hard, like a rock or a thick branch, protecting the gearbox. Some machines don't use shear pins at all, which is another reason to check your manual.
Fill the tank with fresh fuel, start the engine outdoors, and let it run long enough to engage the auger and drive forward a few metres. Listen for squeals or grinding, and watch that the chute turns freely.
If your machine uses shear pins, buy two spares now and keep them, with the right wrench, in a zip-top bag taped to the handle or in the holder on the machine. Replacing one takes minutes when the parts are within reach.
While you're in the garage, stage the rest of the kit near the door you'll use most: shovels, a pusher, a bag of ice melt with a scoop, and a roof rake if you own one. Set aside thirty to forty-five minutes for the full routine.
If it has already snowed: test the machine on the next calm day before the next storm. If it won't start or something sounds wrong, book service right away, because dealer calendars fill quickly once winter arrives. A good shovel and a little patience will cover the gap.
A wobbly handrail or a burnt-out porch light is a mild annoyance in October. Add ice, early darkness and a visitor carrying groceries, and it becomes a genuine hazard.
There's a responsibility side to this too. The Insurance Bureau of Canada reminds homeowners that they're responsible for keeping stairs, walkways and driveways reasonably safe, and may be held liable for slips, trips and falls if the property isn't kept free from hazards. Its list of common fixes reads like a pre-winter checklist: repair or replace loose and missing stair handrails, remove debris such as wet fall leaves from walking paths, and make sure all areas are adequately lit.
Walk every exterior step and path in the late afternoon, when the light is low. Push on each handrail and tighten any loose brackets. Clear the last layer of wet leaves, which turn into a slick, frozen mat under the first snow. Replace dead bulbs, test motion sensors, and check that timers have caught up with the earlier sunsets.
Larger repairs, like crumbling concrete steps or lifted paving stones, generally need mild weather, so note them for spring and plan around them for now.
Allow thirty minutes to an hour.
If it has already snowed: a loose rail can still be tightened in the cold, and bulbs can always be changed. For anything you can't repair until spring, add extra lighting, keep sand or ice melt by the door, and mark any uneven spot so no one is caught by surprise.
A wobbly handrail or a burnt-out porch light is a mild annoyance in October. Add ice, early darkness and a visitor carrying groceries, and it becomes a genuine hazard.
There's a responsibility side to this too. The Insurance Bureau of Canada reminds homeowners that they're responsible for keeping stairs, walkways and driveways reasonably safe, and may be held liable for slips, trips and falls if the property isn't kept free from hazards. Its list of common fixes reads like a pre-winter checklist: repair or replace loose and missing stair handrails, remove debris such as wet fall leaves from walking paths, and make sure all areas are adequately lit.
Walk every exterior step and path in the late afternoon, when the light is low. Push on each handrail and tighten any loose brackets. Clear the last layer of wet leaves, which turn into a slick, frozen mat under the first snow. Replace dead bulbs, test motion sensors, and check that timers have caught up with the earlier sunsets.
Larger repairs, like crumbling concrete steps or lifted paving stones, generally need mild weather, so note them for spring and plan around them for now.
Allow thirty minutes to an hour.
If it has already snowed: a loose rail can still be tightened in the cold, and bulbs can always be changed. For anything you can't repair until spring, add extra lighting, keep sand or ice melt by the door, and mark any uneven spot so no one is caught by surprise.
This is the gentlest item on the list, and one of the most underrated. Once snow covers the roof, the foundation and the yard, you lose sight of what everything looked like. A set of dated photos taken now captures the condition of your home before winter does its work.
That record can be genuinely helpful if something goes wrong. The Insurance Bureau of Canada's claim guidance asks homeowners to document everything after a loss, including photos and detailed notes, and reminds them that their policy requires them to act to limit further damage. IBC also notes that ice dam damage that is ongoing or repeated may be treated as a long-term maintenance issue and may not be covered. A clear picture of how the roof and eavestroughs looked in the fall gives you a starting point for that conversation.
Take ten to fifteen minutes and walk all four sides of the house. Photograph each wall from a few steps back, then the roofline from the ground, the eavestroughs and downspouts, the foundation, the deck, the fence, and the spots you marked earlier: vents, meter and curb stop.
Save the photos to a shared cloud album named for the season and the address. Your phone stamps the date automatically, and an album that someone else in the household can open is far easier to find in a hurry.
If it has already snowed: take the photos anyway and capture what you can see. Then look back through your phone for summer shots of the house and add them to the same album. Together, they make a useful record.
That's the whole walk-around. Here it is in one place, made to screenshot, print, or keep open on your phone as you work your way around the house.
| Shut off and drain outdoor taps | Water left in the tap and its pipe freezes first | 10–20 min | A split pipe inside the wall that leaks when the tap is next used | Close the inside valve anyway, open the outside tap, and watch for drips once it thaws |
| Disconnect and store garden hoses | A connected hose traps water in the tap | 10 min | A frost-free tap can still freeze and burst | Free the coupling with warm tap water; never wrench it |
| Clear the sump discharge path | The outside hose freezes solid in the first deep cold | 15–20 min | A pump pushing against ice can overheat and burn out | Swap the hose for an elbow and splash pad; never unplug the pump |
| Book or finish the irrigation blow-out | Underground lines and the backflow device freeze in place | 30–60 min (usually a pro) | Cracked lines, heads and a damaged backflow assembly in spring | Call a contractor anyway; otherwise shut the system off and flag it for spring |
| Find and mark the gas meter and exterior vents | Low vents vanish under the first drift | 15 min | Blocked vents can stop a furnace or let carbon monoxide build up indoors | Brush them clear by hand; call the gas utility for ice on the meter |
| Mark driveway edges, beds and the curb stop | Edges and valves disappear under snow | 20–30 min (two people helps) | Plow or snow blower damage, and a shut-off valve no one can find | Set tall stakes in the snow; locate the curb stop from a summer photo |
| Clear eavestroughs and extend downspouts | Ladder work on ice is unsafe | 1–3 hours (ladder, second person or a pro) | Meltwater spills against the foundation and freezes on walkways | Fit downspout extensions from the ground; leave the troughs for a thaw or a pro |
| Clear window wells and check covers | Leaves under snow trap meltwater against the window | 20 min | Water pooling at basement windows | Scoop out the snow, starting with any well at a bedroom window |
| Close ground-level gaps mice use | Snowbanks hide the gaps, and sealants prefer mild days | 45–90 min | Mice settling into walls, the garage and the basement | Stuff gaps from inside with steel wool now and caulk on a mild day |
| Treat the AC condenser and heat pump differently | Snow and ice settle on and around outdoor units | 15 min | A wrapped heat pump can't breathe; a sealed condenser invites rust and rodents | Brush the condenser top; clear all around a heat pump after each snowfall |
| Drain and store rain barrels, pots and furniture | Anything holding water will freeze and split | 30–60 min | A cracked barrel, broken pots, weathered cushions | Tip the barrel to stop it refilling and drain it at the first thaw |
| Bring freeze-sensitive liquids indoors | Unheated garages and sheds drop below freezing | 15 min | Latex paint and water-based products ruined by freezing | Move them inside now and check the paint for chunks once thawed |
| Start the snow blower and stage tools | The first storm is when breakdowns surface | 30–45 min | A machine that won't start, or a broken shear pin mid-driveway | Test it on a calm day and book service early |
| Fix steps, handrails and exterior lights | Loose rails and dark steps get far riskier on ice | 30–60 min | Slips and falls on your property | Tighten rails now; use lighting, sand and ice melt until spring repairs |
| Take dated photos of the roof and exterior | Snow hides the roofline, foundation and yard | 15 min | No record of the home's condition before winter | Photograph what's visible and add any summer photos you already have |
Sometimes the snow arrives before the weekend you planned for it. If you have only an hour, spend it where the stakes are highest.
First, shut off and drain the outdoor taps and take the hoses off. That's the water most likely to freeze first and the damage most likely to stay hidden until spring. Second, check the sump discharge so the pump has somewhere to send water all winter. Third, find and mark the gas meter and the low exterior vents, because those are the items you'll most need to see after a storm. Fourth, if you have a heat pump, clear a generous space around it and make sure nothing is covering it.
Everything else on this list either has a good fallback or can be finished on a milder day. That's the encouraging part of a last-call list: once the water and the vents are looked after, the rest of the house can wait a little longer for you.
When the snow does settle in, a different set of risks takes over, from icy walkways to roof loads. Our guide to hidden winter hazards after the first snowfall picks up exactly where this walk-around ends.
About the Author
Ryan is the founder of Homeowner.ca and a proud Canadian homeowner based in Guelph, Ontario. Over his 25-year career in digital publishing, he has focused on transforming complex information into clear, practical guidance that helps people make confident, well-informed decisions.
Yes. A frost-free tap closes the water off inside the warm wall, so it usually doesn't need a separate inside valve. It only works if the hose is disconnected and the tap can drain outward. A connected hose traps water and can burst it.
The giveaway usually comes in spring. If you turn the tap on and water appears inside, on the basement ceiling or along the wall, rather than at the spout, the pipe behind the shut-off may have split. Turn it off and call a plumber.
Not with a full wrap. Full covers trap moisture and can invite rust and rodents. If ice or debris falling from above is a concern, a top-only cover, such as secured plywood or a breathable cover, is the gentler option.
No. A heat pump that runs in winter should never be covered, because it needs air moving through it to heat your home. Instead, clear the snow from around and on top of it after each snowfall.
The Intact Centre on Climate Adaptation recommends at least two metres from the foundation, onto a lawn or garden that slopes away. Avoid aiming them at walkways or driveways, where the water will freeze.
Don't kick it, chip it, or pour hot water or de-icer on it. Clear loose snow gently by hand or with a soft brush, and call your gas utility to remove ice from the meter or regulator. If you smell gas, leave and call from outside.
Health Canada says mice can squeeze through cracks as small as a dime. Worn door thresholds, gaps around pipes and a garage door seal that has worn at the corners are all common entry points.
It's best not to. Lint collects on mesh and restricts the airflow, and model building codes prohibit screens at dryer outlets for that reason. Instead, make sure the vent flap swings freely and closes fully.
A curb stop is the shut-off valve between the municipal water main and your home, usually near the property line in the front yard or driveway. Municipalities expect owners to keep it accessible, and it's used in emergencies such as a frozen service line.
No. The City of Winnipeg says plainly never to unplug a sump pump. If the outside discharge hose is likely to freeze, disconnect the hose and use an elbow with a splash pad or a wider perforated pipe instead.
According to the Insurance Bureau of Canada, standard home policies generally cover resulting damage from frozen and burst pipes, provided the pipes are in the heated part of the home and reasonable steps were taken to maintain heat. Your own policy wording decides the details, so check with your insurer.
Not always. A light snowfall doesn't necessarily mean the lines have frozen, and many contractors keep working into early winter. If no one can come, shut off the irrigation supply indoors and have the backflow preventer inspected before the system goes back on in spring.
