Once you are past the DIY shelf, three professional methods do the real work. Which one fits depends on whether the glaze is brittle or gummy, and on what the liner underneath can take.
Professional chemical treatment
This is the route built specifically for glaze. Sweeps apply professional-grade powders, acids or poultices that change the glaze into a form that can be brushed out. The best-documented example is a poultice creosote remover mixed into a thick slurry and drawn up the flue on a winched applicator. According to the manufacturer's application label, it dissolves and absorbs glaze, dries in roughly 24 to 48 hours, loses its grip on the tile and is then swept out.
Two caveats from that same label deserve a place in your planning. Extremely heavy deposits may need more than one application. And once the glaze is gone, the flue must be inspected for cracked tiles or failed mortar joints before the system is used again. Removing glaze can reveal damage the glaze was hiding.
Older chemical methods follow a similar arc. Trade sweeps describe a typical professional glaze treatment as three visits over about two weeks: score the glaze, saturate it, run several hot fires, sweep out the broken-down deposit, then treat what remains. Acid treatments work too, but they are harder to apply and must be neutralized a few days later.
Rotary power sweeping
Rotary systems spin chain or cable heads inside the flue at high speed. CSIA's guidance is precise about when they help: when creosote is "crusty or fractures when hit." On brittle glaze they can be effective and fast.
The trade-off is the liner. One CSIA-certified firm notes that a rotary chain head "can typically get the job done and is considered a safe method," but that liner damage, pre-existing or not, is often blamed on it. The same firm's glaze write-up also observes that it is not unusual for owners to replace flue liners outright to get rid of third-degree creosote.
The practical takeaway: ask for the liner to be documented, ideally with a camera, before aggressive rotary work begins. If tiles are already cracked, you want that on record before the chains go in, not after.
Why the standard brush stops working
A wire brush is the right tool for stage 1 and 2 deposits, and a complete professional sweep covers both the flue and the smoke chamber. On glaze, it skates. Hitting the glaze hard enough to break it risks breaking the chimney too. That is why a sweep who finds glaze will usually quote a treatment or a reline, not just a return visit with a stiffer brush.
If you are choosing who to call, our playbook for hiring a chimney sweep in Canada covers WETT credentials, scope and what a good report should include.